Juha Berglund

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Around the Emerald Isle

"The roots of education are bitter, but the fruit is sweet.” said Aristotle. I am now a Guinness expert and fully certified to work in Irish pubs, yay! I also took a tour in Old Bushmills Distillery in Northern Ireland, the oldest working distillery in Ireland. 

My wife was travelling to Dublin for work, and since I have more paid holidays than she has, I decided to tag along. She gets to travel to cool places all the time so Dublin was nothing new to her, but for me it was my first visit to Ireland – or Éire, as it is called in Gaelic. 

When I think of Ireland, I associate it with good music, dark beer, beautiful red-haired women and tax-evading multinational companies. I quickly learned that it is so much more, like unpredictable rainy weather, countless hordes of sheep, an unintelligible English accent and breakfasts that give you a heart attack and colon cancer in one go. 

We had a full weekend of time to travel together, and after that I continued alone for four days. The island of Ireland is quite small, roughly the size of Western Finland, so I figured that I have more than plenty of time to see all the essentials and do some hiking. My wife usually does the thinking and plans our travels (and she's great at it; I'm just the pack mule and chauffeur), but this time I had to try and use my brains myself. It is not easy if you're not used to it. There was so much more to see, and the back country roads were slow to drive, so I had to compromise and I ended up missing for instance Connemara National Park completely. 

Perhaps I had set my expectations too low (by comparing Ireland to Western Finland), but I was very positively surprised and enjoyed the trip wholeheartedly! The local people were a major reason why I liked Ireland so much. The Irish colleagues I've had the pleasure to work with over the years have all been really great guys, but turns out that pretty much everyone on that island are welcoming, friendly and helpful. As a Finn, I was culture shocked by the talkativeness of the Irish so I avoided direct eye contact and pretended I was having hearing trouble.

Another positive surprise were the places where we stayed in. Both my wife and I prefer to travel in economy class, so we stayed at Bed & Breakfasts instead of hotels. All the homes we had chosen were clean and tidy, some even luxurious, and the inclusive full Irish breakfasts were so heavy that I ended up skipping lunches. There really is no point of staying in a hotel in Ireland, unless you actually care about your cholesterol levels.

The rolling green hills of Irish countryside are charming and the little farmhouses and villages are just lovely. I followed the Wild Atlantic Way wherever I could, and enjoyed the scenic views along the drive. There is something calming about just being close to the big sea. The only thing I missed from home was my beautiful, dearest car with its proper automatic transmission. And again, as a Finn, I would like to point out that Finland may not be the only European country with a little bit bland and potato heavy food culture.

Can I please please go again?

Torc Waterfall in Killarney National Park. The weather was rainy but we enjoyed the hike nevertheless.

Hiking at Gap of Dunloe.

I prepared for the trip by listening to Flogging Molly and Dropkick Murphys. Turns out both of these bands are American. Anyway, here is obviously another fan of Celtic punk rock.

Two problems of a mirrorless camera system in one picture: poor auto-focusing and a huge depth of field. I hunted this deer so long that I am posting this photo regardless of its technical flaws.

Ross Castle on the edge of Lough Leane, in Killarney.

Cliffs of Moher are perhaps Ireland's most iconic landscape. 

When there is a cow, there's me with a camera. One day I will be a professional cowtographer.

I was hoping for a breathtaking sunset but all we got was some more rain. The scenery is just as stunning nevertheless.

Going around the Gleniff Horseshoe.

One corner of Benbulbin.

Can you guess Ireland's official national colour?

Irish Setter in her natural habitat. My aunt has actually two of them.

Along the Wild Atlantic Way, in Mullaghmore Head.

Irish sheep are very shy (or sheepish?) compared to their Swiss cousins. It was difficult to get close enough for a photo. 

The trick of getting an Irish sheep shot is to wait politely and let the baa-baas come to you. The minor drawback of my cunning tactic was that I got thoroughly bitten by midges while waiting. In the evening it looked like I had chickenpox. 

Slieve League, or Sliabh Liag in Irish, is one of the highest sea cliffs in Ireland. I had to do the hike alone since my wife was back at work. 

A quick stop in Belfast. I visited the Titanic Museum, which was just chosen as "Europe's Leading Tourist Attraction 2016".

Banknotes of Northern Ireland are utterly nuts. They are legal currency, but technically not legal tender even in Northern Ireland. All major banks issue their own, different looking pound notes. Absolutely brilliant.

Walking on Giant's Causeway.

I was let to believe that these hexagonal columns are naturally formed. I am still not fully convinced.

This is one of my favourite photos because it looks like it is straight from a whiskey advertisement. I should have included a Bushmills bottle.

I stayed one night in Northern Ireland. The B&B was located in the countryside, the closest little town was called Banbridge. I went out for an after dinner walk and got this photo as a reward. 

Back in Dublin. They are brewing dark porridge of happiness here.

The instructor at Guinness Storehouse taught me how to perfectly pour a pint of the good stuff. When executed correctly, the six-step ritual takes approximately 119.5 seconds.

Newgrange passage tomb is a Unesco World Heritage site and it is about 5200 years old. It is older than Stonehenge and the Great Pyramids of Giza. The inner chamber is illuminated only by the rising sun of the winter solstice. Pretty amazing!

The Brazen Head in Dublin is officially Ireland's oldest pub, dating back to 1198. A good way to end a great trip.