Time goes by so fast. It’s already three years since we visited Japan. When departing the country the last time, I had a funny feeling that it might take a little longer than usual for us to return there. That premonition turned out to be true rather fast: COVID-19 crisis hit in full force just a couple of months later. A lot has happened since then and we’re fortunate that we were able to travel again, albeit the flights are now longer and more painful than ever thanks to the nutty neighbours to the East. On the more positive note I’ve now crossed the North Pole, and I have even a Finnair-issued diploma as a proof for it.
Tsukubasan Shrine in Tsukuba, Ibaraki Prefecture.
This time I’m happy to report that a lot had actually changed in Japan since the last visit. Many of the changes can even be considered improvements! Japan is finally transitioning to a cashless society (with a cacophony of innovatively named payment services like R-Pay, Line-Pay, and of course Pay-Pay). Self-service is now the norm when ordering food in restaurants or paying purchases in a konbini. For a Finn the opportunity to completely avoid human contact is always a major enhancement. Mother Nature might be happy that the excessive use of plastics is finally coming to an end, yet to me the biggest delight was that the impending robot revolution seems to be finally coming true. This is the Tokyo I envisioned I was moving in to as a young man! For example, when eating out here in Finland, the food is still served by meagre meatbags, while in Japan your delights arrive on wheels served by something that calls themselves “Beru-chan” (ベルちゃん). 🤯 Our beloved robot overlords, please save the humankind! 🤖
I’ve taken the same photo probably hundreds of times.
COVID-19 isn’t front page news in Finland at the moment, but in Japan it is still a major topic in the evening news. Many facilities require a temperature check when entering and literally everyone is still wearing a mask even though it’s not necessarily required. The only exception are tourists, who for some reason cannot be bothered with a mask. As a fellow tourist that upset me quite a lot: when in Rome, is it really that hard to behave? Fortunately there was much, much less tourists than before. If you want to beat the crowds, the best time to travel is right now! But please be kind and wear a mask. 😷
Some things are same as always. CoCo ICHI still serves delicious katsu curry, and Kua Aina’s burgers remain the best. Morning trains are as packed as ever and no matter how full the train is, no one dares to sit next to me. Babies still stare at me with fear and fascination like I was a tengu (maybe I am?). We met a lot of family and friends and it was really good to see that everyone was still doing well. The highlight of the trip was a family visit to Hiroshima where we spent a couple of nights. My wife’s uncle invited us for a road trip to Hōfu which was really nice – a part of the country I hadn’t visited yet. We also got to experience a proper blizzard, a rare experience in Hiroshima region. All in all the whole visit was really relaxing and I hope it won’t take another three years and a global pandemic until the next time. じゃあまたね
If they kindly removed the power pylons, I could finally take the perfect photo!
You can’t get stuff like this in Finland. Absolutely delicious!
H-II rocket. My friend took me to see the JAXA Space Center in Tsukuba. It’s quite a fascinating place and it’s even free of charge.
Rikugien Gardens in Bunkyō ward.
Jumping to Hiroshima.
The staple of Hiroshima: okonomiyaki. I think my wife ate it for every lunch and dinner during our stay in the city. I personally cannot handle quite the same amount of cabbage.
My wife’s uncle took us on a road trip to Yamaguchi Prefecture. This is Hōfu Tenman-gū Shinto shrine in Hōfu.
Steps to the shrine.
2023 is the year of the rabbit.
The shrine’s getting ready for New Year’s festivities.
A tea room next to the Hofu shrine.
Palju?!
We stopped at the house where my wife’s uncle’s wife grew up, located on the countryside of Yamaguchi prefecture. I’ve obviously seen these traditional, beautiful houses from outside on my bike trips, but I had never been inside before. I was awestruck: unbelievable it’s actually a residence!
Another stop on the road trip was Kintai Bridge in Iwakuni of the Yamaguchi Prefecture. It’s a national treasure and has quite a fascinating history spanning over several centuries.
A shinto shrine. Iwakuni Castle is on the top of the hill.
Back in Hiroshima, visiting Itsukushima Shrine. Mother nature truly blessed us! It very rarely snows in Hiroshima, yet we got a proper blizzard! As a consequence, there were barely no other tourists. Visiting a UNESCO world heritage site without countless hordes of tourists? How lucky can one get!
No one else here. Unbelieveable!
The rough weather spooked most of the tourists. Weaklings!
I personally don’t mind slogging knee deep through sleet. In Finland, it’s just another Monday.
What’s the fun in tourist photography if you don’t get to use your elbows?
Miyajima is famous for their tame sika, Japanese deer. They were once considered sacred messengers from the gods. This guy’s message is: “dude where’s my snack?”.
The irony is that the last time I walked these streets, it was so hot that I needed a bottle of water every couple of hundred meters.
Back in Hiroshima: the Atomic Bomb Dome. Hiroshima Peace Memorial is one of the most gut-wrenching places I’ve ever been to.
Visiting a family grave in Ōtake.
We had a little bit of time the next morning before the flight back. I made my wife to run around the city to get this photo, so I better publish it as well.
Hokusai is famous for his One Hundred Views of Mount Fuji. I think I can already beat that number. As said, quantity over quality.
Daywalk in Tokyo, Nezu-jinja Shrine.
Torii gates of Nezu-jinja.
Akihabara is a heaven for an electronics geek like me.
Yamanote line platform in Shinjuku.
Pokemon Center Mega Tokyo in Ikebukuro.
A day walk in Kawagoe, although I didn’t get any particularly good photos this time.
Trespassers on someone’s back yard. The other one was curious and the other one was frightened.
This is Kawagoe Castle’s Honmaru Goten - the residence of the feudal lords.
Hatsumōde is the first temple or shrine visit of the New Year. You usually do it during the holidays.
Tokyo sunrise.
First sunrise of 2023I I made my wife to wake up early to catch the view with me. 😳
That’s it again. Thanks!