Zen and the Art of Architecture / by Juha Berglund

An easy way to make real sushi taste absolutely delicious is to eat Finnish supermarket sushi for a whole year before trying it.

A new year, a new trip to Japan! It’s always just as exhilarating to be back. The food alone is good enough a reason to return; I usually prepare a “must eat” list in advance, leaving enough empty slots for improvised eating and family events. The trips would be a bliss if only the flights were not so long, the two extra hours really hurt. The older I grow, the more I dread the lengthy journey. I’ve never been able to sleep in economy class. Usually after 8 hours of being packed like a sardine, my back muscles form an alliance and start an outright mutiny against me.

Aging has also some unexpected perks; it's not just about waning health and increased backaches. It turns out, I've evolved into a museums enthusiast. Previously, I could spend endless hours wandering the streets and stores of Akihabara, but now, it just bores me. Instead, I noticed that the museums and historic sites have become the most captivating part of my trips. I also discovered that for a museums enthusiast, visiting Japan at the end of the year is the worst timing—everything seems to be closed!

Not many people order beef in a unagi restaurant. Taking the road less traveled sometimes rewards delightfully. 😁

My father-in-law had planned and booked us a family trip to Tsushima and Iki islands. I did my share by studying the history and geography of the islands by playing Ghost of Tsushima on PS5. I was so pumped I might’ve accidentally taken flight. Unfortunately, the divine winds intervened, just like with the Mongolian fleet 750 years earlier. We had to scrap our plans due to heavy winds and snowfall. I felt… deflated. Fortunately we were able to pivot quickly, and headed towards Lake Biwa region instead. I got to explore the Sekigahara battlefield and Hikone castle, both truly fascinating visits. My wife and I also spent an extra night in Kyoto because I insisted on indulging in more historic touristy activities.

A typical Japanese pastry.

Now, I have an unpopular opinion that I can't keep to myself any longer. Kyoto is stunning; it can be compared to the likes of Rome, Athens, or Cairo. Spared in WW2 by almost like a divine intervention. Then, why, oh why, for the love of everything beautiful, is Kyoto's skyline marred by an atrocity that belongs in the Las Vegas Strip?! In a city with Zen gardens where the placement of every single stone is thoughtfully considered? Why? I’m talking about the Kyoto Tower. ひどい! Please take it down! And while you’re at it, scrap that impractical maze called Kyoto central railway station too! It's an eyesore!

I might not be on Kyoto's welcome list for a while. 😁

While we were enjoying our January 1st in Tokyo, Noto peninsula was hit by a strong earthquake. It’s been a while since my phone’s quake alarm has gone off the last time. Earthquakes are one thing I will never get used to. A tragic event for those who lost their lives or homes. A good reminder why I shouldn’t take our annual trips for granted, or complain too much about flying in coach.

My in-laws live in Saitama in a town called “Fujimino”, which translates as a “field from where you can see Mount Fuji”.

Jumping to Kyoto. Kyoto Tower r̶u̶i̶n̶i̶n̶g̶ shining like a beacon.

Kamo-gawa, “Duck River”, in Kyoto.

The shrine is famous for thousands of torii gates.

My wife claims that I always like to take same kind of pictures.

I have no idea what she is talking about.

A spanking new Toyota Crown was parked in front of the temple. It looked like a scene from the Grand Turismo photo mode.

A Zen garden at Tofuku-ji.

Takashiyama Kyoto department store had an Italian plumber pole dancing on their roof.

Walking towards Kiyomizu-dera.

Waiting for the sun to set. Kiyomizu-dera is an ancient Buddhist temple and a UNESCO World Heritage Site.

Best shot of Kiyomizu-dera I got this time. Heart of the winter is not the best season.

Main gate to the Shogun’s residence at Nijo Castle.

A tea house in the shogun’s garden.

Ninomaru Palace was the residence of the shogun.

After Kyoto, we travelled in the lake Biwa area. This is Sekigahara, one of the most famous battlegrounds in the world. It’s hard to imagine that 400 years ago, over 150 000 men clashed on this field. It was the end of the Sengoku period (130 years of constant war) and the beginning of the Tokugawa shogunate.

Tokugawa Ieyasu’s armor at the Sekigahara Battlefield Memorial Museum.

The museum was definitely worth a visit.

Next stop: on the way to Hikone castle.

Hikone Castle is one of the few remaining original castles in Japan.

It’s a… fox?

Hikone castle museum had an interesting collection that included for example Noh masks.

Next stop: Kinshoku-ji.

Kinshoku-ji

View from the ruins of Azuchi Castle.

Back in Kanto region. This is a view from the in-laws apartment towards north over sub-urban Saitama. It’s just fascinating how different the view is compared to where we live in Espoo, Finland.

I haven’t visited Yokohama since I left Continental Japan in 2013, so I did a solo day trip there. It was a factory visit (of sorts).

The factory I visited was of course Gundam Factory 😁.

It’s a “life size” RX-78!

…and it moves like the real thing! Absolutely amazing! I might not be ニュータイプ, but wish I had my own giant battle robot nevertheless! 😅

As usual, I had plenty of time to stroll around the city.

I visited Akiba just twice…

…I guess I really am getting old.

Inō Tadataka memorial at Katori City.

“Take a picture of it. You always take photos like that.” Bah!

New year’s visit to a shrine.

We visited Katori-Jingu Shrine in Chiba. My in-laws kindly chose the temple so that I could easily get dropped off to the airport.

Panorama of the first sunrise of 2024.

Fuji-san in sunset…

…and Fuji-san in morning colours.

Even wider panorama of Tokyo.

That’s it, thanks!