Tere jälle ja sveiki / by Juha Berglund

Help! Time is vanishing! What's going on? It feels like we visited Tallinn just a while ago, but it's been over seven full years since my first ever blog post and the previous time we were in Estonia and Latvia. I look visibly younger in pictures, yet I have no recollection of so much time passing by. There must be a glitch in the Matrix: time most certainly isn't linear!

Leaving Helsinki: passing by the tip of Kustaanmiekka.

Last time we did the road trip with my parents, and this time we were accompanied by my in-laws. Our journey took us to cozy Pärnu, bustling Riga, academic Tartu and good old familiar Tallinn. The last time we were greeted by sleet and gloom, this time we got lucky with summer-like weather even though it was early in the season. It was sunshine (almost) all the way. We even managed to avoid doing extreme sports (despite my partner’s wishes), so fortunately this time no one suffered a concussion and I didn't need to run around trying to find a doctor with smelling salts.

It was an interesting moment in history to visit the Baltics, given Russia's war of conquest in Ukraine and not so thinly veiled intentions to invade the Baltic countries next. Wherever there was an Estonian or Latvian flag, there was a Ukrainian flag next to it. While most of the world has turned a blind eye (simultaneously funding the Russian war machine), Latvia and Estonia are supporting Ukraina’s struggle more per capita than anyone else. Due to the tense situation, NATO is visibly present in the Baltic region. For instance, we met an Italian armoured company while on the highway, and there were Polish officers stationed in the same hotel in Tartu. I don't get easily spooked by someone being bigger than me, but the Polish brass caused a serious case of size-based intimidation when sharing an elevator ride with them: these guys are all two meters tall and look like professional wrestlers. 😳

Ice Hockey World Championships 2023 were hosted again in Riga, Latvia and Tampere, Finland since the original host Russia wasn't an option. There were a lot of international hockey fans in Riga. Latvians themselves are probably just as passionate about the sport as we Finns are, so it was fun to enjoy the atmosphere even if I didn't get to go to any of the games. Unfortunately our hotel room neighbours were of the kind who like to celebrate a win until 8am. Fortunately, however, my wife complained to the hotel reception. As a result we got a free upgrade to the top floor and I got some nice sunset photos. Thank you hotel (and my wife)! 😄

Ahoy! Estonia on the horizon.

First stop of the trip: an alpaca farm in Southwest Estonia. Nope, they are not native to the region.

These guys are super friendly…

…as long as you bribe them with carrots.

It was a Friday night in Pärnu and based on the honking and the shouts, the local youth seemed to be amused about a chubby middle aged Finn showcasing his butt crack in their flower bench.

Pärnu has a beautiful kilometers long sand beach and coastal meadows ideal for bird watching.

A noisy Pärnu local.

Bye bye Estonia, hello Latvia!

We stopped in a town called Sigulda.

Spring had arrived a little bit earlier compared to Finland, and apple trees were in full bloom.

Next stop: Riga. Panorama of Daugava River.

As a country bumpkin I’m always a bit unsure about my table manners. Constantly staring at me does not help!

According to the Internet, the towers are called Zunda Towers.

A singer on the stage. Not the greatest photo, but the performance made me chuckle.

Side streets of Riga have still plenty of that “Soviet charm” left.

Again according to the internet, this is “Svētās Trīsvienības Pārdaugavas pareizticīgo baznīca”.

Riga from the Riga Cathedral.

About 70km from Riga is Rundāle Palace, “Versailles of Latvia“.

Throne room.

The palace gardens were beautiful as well, although I didn’t get a particularly good photo.

We got an upgrade thanks to drunk hockey fans. Yay! This is a view from the hotel room balcony.

Same view over Riga in sunrise.

Is it just me or does the IIHF 2023 mascot look exactly like a cartoon Jaromir Jagr?

My favourite photo of the trip. This Riga kitty put up quite a show.

“Have you tried turning it off and on again?” - kitty rebooting.

Bye bye Latvia, hello Estonia! This is Emajõgi river in the Southeast corner of the country.

Tartu old town.

Tartu is famous for it’s univeristy.

Back in Tallinn. This is Tallinn Vanalinn: the Old Town. In Finnish, vanalinn, “vanha linna”, would mean an old castle. It’s fascinating how the words have changed meaning.

It was the only rainy day of the trip, so we went to see Lennusadam maritime museum in Tallinn.

This submarine is Lembit.

It took me a while to understand what’s happening, but the white, blue and blood coloured flag is the telltale. Russian Embassy in Tallinn is decorated in quite creative protest art.

Fat Margaret on the background.

Suur Rannavärav - “Great Coastal Gate”.

There’s a Japanese garden in Talliinn. Sakura was at it’s peak in mid May.

Kadriorg Palace in Tallinn.

Three Sisters.

Time to go home. The view is from Pirita Beach in Tallinn, and the ferry is Viking XPRS. I chose to travel with Viking Line, which was a huge mistake. Their pier in Helsinki is located in Katajanokka, which is painful to access by car because of the absolutely bonkers changes to street planning in the city center. Thanks to the hippies & hipsters of Helsinki, it took an hour just to get out of the damn town. I guess the idea is to stop the climate change and make the city center livelier, but I don’t understand how that is achieved by me being stuck in a car that is running idle. 👿

That’s it again, thanks!