Naples and Sorrentine Peninsula / by Juha Berglund

This is the second part of my trip to Italy. You can find the first part here.

Southern Italy frightens me. Perhaps I've seen too many movies, or maybe it is the autistic side of my personality that is at unease with unpredictability, nevertheless I was guarding my possessions with a little bit of additional care at our next stop, Naples. I had read that in Naples even waste collection is organised by the organised crime, so I was expecting the worst from the very beginning. The bullet train we took from Rome departed and arrived just on schedule, so I was a little bit disappointed when my first stereotype was actually shattered upon arrival.

I tried Babas dipped in rum and in limoncello. Good stuff regardless of the "sauce".

We had a guide in Rome who was lamenting the local traffic there but saying that it is even worse in Naples. According to him the Neapolitan road signs and traffic lights look the same as elsewhere, but in Naples they are there just for decorative purposis. We survived the Naples traffic, and I even got a fun video from the front seat of a taxi as a reward, but I'm still not sure if the local driving culture is closer to European or South Asian. Somewhere in between anyway. 

Talking about South Asia, I was surprised to see so many immigrants (I believe mostly Bangladeshi) everywhere selling selfie sticks. With such a huge supply, there must be an enormous demand. As of now, I officially hate selfie sticks and they shall be outlawed and eradicated the very moment I become the dictator of world. I don't like to be poked with sticks, I don't like sticks poking in my pictures, and I don't like people doing their inane selfie poses in front of everything. Grrrrr!

Diego Armando Maradona forever!

Since Naples is "yet another big city", we spent only a day there and stayed instead in a town called Sorrento. That was such a great decision by my wife! Sorrento was a picturesque (although very touristy) little town and the surroundings on the Sorrentine Peninsula were stunning. The southern side of the peninsula is known as the Amalfi Coast, which is a UNESCO World Heritage site. We hired a driver to show us around the coast (another top decision by my wife). Usually wherever I travel the pleasantries go like this: "Where are you from?" - "Finland" - "Sorry what was that?" - "Finland" - "Uhh.. oh." but with Michele, our driver, the dialogue was "Where are you from?" - "Finland" - "Oh Finland, great rally drivers!". What a brilliant fun guy and also a good guide!

We finished our trip with some genuine Italian train drama that I had been so worried about. Our return flight back home was from Rome, so we took a train from Naples to Rome. Well, three of us did, because my wife somehow missed the train and was left behind. I still don't know what exactly happened on the platform, but the end result was shocking. I was going through all kinds of nightmare scenarios in my mind for the duration of the train ride. Fortunately she was able to figure out the options quickly, and she was allowed to use the next train without purchasing a new ticket. How did humankind survive the era before the invention of mobile phones? In the end we made it to the airport just as planned. All in all it was another top trip and I would especially recommend visiting Sorrento. Although pizza is without an argument the best in the city of Naples, Sorrento was such a pleasant beautiful place to stay.

Waterfront of Naples, Vesuvius in the distance.

I had so much fun photographing this Neapolitan couple. They must have been together for a while since they were obviously going through normal married couple stuff.

Excuses and head scratching.

Guilt.

Wrath.

Visiting Castel dell'Ovo or the Egg Castle.

Galleria Umberto I is a public shopping gallery in Naples, similar to Galleria Vittorio Emanuele II in Milan.

Sfogliatella was my favourite pastry of the trip.

I love pizza, so eating pizza in Naples was like completing a pilgrimage. I can finally cross it off from my bucket list. We ate in a casual pizzeria called Di Matteo. The ordering and waiting process was sheer chaos (you can see the "line" in the picture) and we succeeded only due to the perseverance of my father-in-law.

This pizza doesn't look like much but it was delicious! And it cost a whole whopping 4.50€! The place is not fancy (entering the tables happens through the kitchen) and the service isn't exactly friendly either, but the food was definitely yummy, affordable and authentic. Even Bill Clinton visited this place in '94!

I really wanted to get a photo of a real Neapolitan Don, and I got lucky. This is my favourite picture of the trip.

Historic centre of Naples is a UNESCO World Heritage site and I wish we could have stayed a bit longer there.

Naples old town.

We took a local train to Sorrento. Although arriving 20 minutes late, it actually departed on schedule.

Limoncello is a local speciality. It is an overly sweet lemon-flavoured drink. So sweet, that you don't even realise it has almost as much alcohol as vodka.

Panorama of Marina Grande, Sorrento.

Town of Sorrento in sunset.

Dinner at Porta Marina. I don't always eat sea food, but when I do (my wife makes me), I would definitely recommend this place. It was great! The food was fresh and (despite containing marine animals) definitely eatable.

Driving around the Amalfi Coast, another UNESCO World Heritage site. Town of Positano on the right, and the Sirenusas on the background.

You need to get along with your neighbours if you want to live in a town like this.

Like the whole Sorrentine peninsula, Positano was awfully touristy.

The beach of Positano was infested with selfie stick people. As usual, I complained a lot and did my best to frame them out.

My lunch had a creamy lemon flavour and I liked it very, very much.

City of Amalfi.

Once upon a time Amalfi was a maritime power competing in the same league with Genoa, Pisa and Venice.

Amalfi was once rich, and the church built in the 9th century is very beautiful.

I don't know how many churches we visited, but the Amalfi Cathedral was definitely one of the prettiest.

Ruins of Pompeii. The excavated area was much larger than I had imagined. 

As the clumsy fool that I am, I accidentally poked this fresco with my umbrella. Pompeii survived almost 2000 years under the ash, but I wonder how long it will survive mass tourism?

Table leg had the owner's name inscribed on it. Given how much has changed in 2000 years, it is interesting that the Latin alphabet has remained the same.

House of Casca Longus.

Rainbow over Pompeii.

Romans invented many things, but not the Internet. Therefore adult content was painted on the walls instead.

Vesuvius looming on the background. For a reason I cannot fathom, Pompeii was recently littered with some pseudo-classic weird looking faux-antique statues made by some Polish dude. Since I wanted to frame them out, the end results look like this picture. Perhaps next year they will open a McDonalds on the Forum.

Gulf of Naples from Sorrento.

Arriving to the Marina Grande of Capri island.

We did some hiking in Capri. Punta Carena Lighthouse in the southwest tip of island.

I walked 113271 steps in 5 days, yet I gained a kilo. How that is possible is a complete mystery.

Capri locals. There were so many cats on the island. Based on the posters I saw, some locals are feeding the strays.

Roadworks in the town of Capri.

Marina Grande of Capri island in front, Sorrentine Peninsula in the distance.

We enjoyed the seafood of Sorrento's Marina Grande as the last dinner of the trip.

Naples and Vesuvius once more from the distance. That's it, thanks!